Training For Your First Bodybuilding Competition at Any Age

Competing in a bodybuilding competition is an exciting, exhilarating and fulfilling experience. It takes determination, dedication and just plain hard work. And, unless you plan on becoming a professional, all you can hope for from all of your effort is a trophy.

Ah, but what a trophy!

When you stand on stage, holding a rigid “relaxed” pose and hear the announcer call your name as Champion in your Class or Winner of the Overall Competition, it’s mighty sweet. You savor the moment and forget all about what it took to get there.

Deciding to Compete

If you are in reasonably good shape and work out regularly, at least four-times-per-week, you can be prepared to enter your first contest within a year. I trained five-days-a-week for 10 months to get ready for my first contest.

You need that much time in order to gain the lean mass your body needs to sustain itself as you enter the fat-burning/cutting phase of your diet, about 13 weeks before your contest. If you want to compete as a Middle Weight, (165 – 185 lbs.), for instance, you might need to be around 195-200 lbs before you begin your cutting phase. The reason is simple. When you go into the cutting phase, your body loses about one pound of muscle for every three pounds of fat. For my first contest, I weighed 154 lbs on January 1st. When I stepped onto the stage on March 19th, I weighed a ripped 136. I was the lightest Bantam Weight. In fact, I was too light. The Bantam Weight limit is 143 lbs. Off season, I will bulk up with lean mass to about 165 lbs and try to come in at around 142.5, near the top of the weight class for next year’s competitions.

So, the first thing you need to do, after deciding to enter a contest, is to pick a contest 10 – 12 months in the future and decide in which weight class you want to compete. Then, see where you are now and where you need to be on contest day. At that point, you can plan your diet.

To make sure this is something you really want to do though, you should attend a bodybuilding competition in your area. It’s the best place to learn about the sport. You can pick out who is really ready to compete and who needs to do more work. Depending on whether you go to a drug-tested show or non-tested show, you will also see how huge some of the men, and even some of the women, who use steroids and other illegal muscle enhancers look. You can decide if that’s the direction you want to go or not.

Competition Diet

Once you decide you want to compete, you must make a complete change in your life style. Bodybuilding is a life-style sport, much like ice skating, marathon running, competitive snowboarding, etc. Bodybuilding takes a lot of time in the gym and a lot of time in the kitchen. Competitive bodybuilders build their lives around their workouts and their meals, which during daylight hours average once every two-and-one-half-hours. It’s also expensive, calling for large amounts of protein each day, at least one gram for each pound of body weight. Here is a typical diet for a bodybuilder who is trying to put on lean mass several months before a competition:

Breakfast: Three egg whites (protein) and one whole egg + one cup of oatmeal

Mid-morning: Protein shake (two scoops) in 8-12 oz of water

Lunch: 8 oz of steak, or chicken, or fish + 8 oz of sweet potato + cup of vegetables

Mid-Afternoon: Protein shake (two scoops) in 8-12 oz of water

Dinner: 8 oz of steak, or chicken, or fish + two cups of vegetables

Throughout the day, you need to drink between 1/2 and one gallon of spring water.

This diet is designed to put on about a pound of lean mass a week. Lots of protein, lots of carbs and little fat.

I’ll talk about how the diet changes as you get closer to your competition later.

Supplements

I said earlier, bodybuilding is an expensive sport. It’s not as expensive as a Bass Boat with all the accessories, but it’s close.

In order to help your body use the fuel you put in (food and drink) and to take advantage of your workouts to build muscle, you need a good supply of supplements. I won’t go into brand names or lead you to any supplier, but, here are some of the supplements you should consider:

Protein Powder: Check the labels. Some are designed as meal replacements, some for lean muscle mass gain, others for general growth, some for fat loss and some for heavy-duty muscle building. One caution, check the labels for additives.

Glutamine: Increases muscular growth, offers a muscle pump while training, helps retain lean muscle tissue, reduces muscle soreness, helps increase fat loss.

Creatine: Allows you to train harder with greater intensity and recover faster. It aids in increasing your weights and number of reps and reduces your rest between sets. Great energy boost.

Flaxseed/Fish Oil: Fat is necessary in your daily diet for the manufacture of hormones, proper brain function and joint lubrication. Eliminate fats completely and your muscles shrink dramatically, and your energy and strength levels go with them. Enter Flaxseed and Fish Oil. Usually in capsule form. They act as solvents to remove hardened fat, support muscle growth and fat metabolism.

Multi-vitamins: Everyone’s vitamin needs are different. Hard-training athletes need more vitamins and minerals. Getting the right amount of vitamins and minerals is equal in importance to protein and carbohydrates.

There are lots of other supplements on the market today. But, if you use these five, along with good workouts and proper diet, you are going to achieve the growth you desire.

Training

Your competition training regimen will have three phases. The first, while you are adding lean mass for muscle building, you will workout with heavier weights and lower reps. During the second or gradual (13 weeks) fat burning/cutting phase, you will work out with lighter weights and higher reps. And, during your final two weeks of training before a show, you will use light weights and only “pump up” your muscles during your workouts. During your bulking up stage, you do moderate cardio. During your cutting for competition phase, you do max cardio and during the last two weeks, moderate to no cardio. I’ll talk more about the last two weeks later.

During my ten months of training for my first two competitions, I used the following workout plan:

Monday (45 Minutes) – Back & Biceps + 20 Minutes of Cardio
Tuesday (45 Minutes) – Legs & Calves + 20 Minutes of Posing
Wednesday (45 Minutes) – Chest & Triceps + 20 Minutes of Cardio
Thursday (45 Minutes) – Legs & Calves + 20 Minutes of Posing
Friday (45 Minutes) – Shoulders & Biceps + 20 Minutes of Cardio
Saturday (45 Minutes) – Posing (Video Session)

Each week I tried to mix up my workout routine so my muscle groups stayed “surprised” and didn’t let my muscles get used to a fixed routine. I mixed machines with dumbbells and never did the same thing twice in a row.

I had great results with this training regimen. When I started, I weighed about 158 lbs. with about 14% body fat. Ten months later, when I stepped onto the stage at my first competition, I was 136 lbs. with 4.5% body fat. At my second competition, two weeks later, I was about 136 with 4% body fat. One ripped, competitive, dude!

Posing

Posing is one of the more important elements of bodybuilding and one that in many cases is neglected. A competitor with a well-muscled and cut body can lose to a competitor with less muscle who is better able to show the judges what he or she has.

I’m not going to get into individual poses in this article. There are many sources available on the web, in books, magazines and videos that demonstrate the various poses. Rather, I will talk about the “psychology” of posing and the importance of posing practice.

While you will hear the head judge repeatedly call out, “Relax!” between poses, there is no such thing as being “Relaxed” during a competition. From the moment you step onto the stage you are being judged, and every muscle in your body must remain flexed. Every pose is built from the legs up. If you are doing a side chest and your legs are not flexed, your upper body will look great while your legs and calves will look flat. You will lose points. In bodybuilding, the judges are looking for your flaws. As a bodybuilder, you are looking to hide those flaws. It’s a cat-and-mouse game. As a 67 year-old competitor, I have a little extra skin around my midsection. I can’t get rid of it no matter how much I diet or how many hundreds of crunches I do. So, to hide my “extra skin”, I lean back a little during my poses to tighten up the area. And, when doing the last pose of the round, the Most Muscular, I place my hands together, in front of my abs, which shows my upper body cuts while “hiding” part of my midsection.

If you think about it, all the training you do to get ready for a competition is laid out on the table during the 10 minutes you are on stage for your Class. It would be a shame to see all that hard work go to waste because you didn’t pose well. Posing practice must become part of your workout schedule during the entire time you are training. I work out 45 minutes-a-day, five-days a week. I do cardio for at least 20 minutes, three or four-days a week. I pose at least ½ hour a night, two evenings a week, and pose for 45 minutes with a video recorder on Saturday morning. The last week before a contest, I practice posing every evening.

Posing is hard work. If you aren’t exhausted after being on stage for six – 10 minutes going through your “relaxed” round and mandatory round, you haven’t posed hard enough. One helpful hint: some competitors begin taking potassium tablets about a week before your competition. By doing that, you will prevent cramping, which if it occurs on stage, can be a killer.

Every competitor, as part of the competition, must choreograph a 60 or 90 second routine set to you own music. While most of the time, the individual posing routine is not counted in your overall score, it sometimes is used as a tie-breaker or to place a person second or third, if it’s close. Nevertheless, your posing routine should be entertaining, lively and should show off your best body parts to their fullest. Try to pick music that is familiar. Make a CD and have two copies with you at your competition. Never do anything gross or that shows bad taste. Bodybuilding is a family-oriented spectator sport. A vulgar performance can get you disqualified from a competition. During the 60 or 90 seconds, you don’t have to show every pose in the book. Do between eight and 10, with graceful movements between poses. It’s OK to move about the stage while you perform your routine. In some cases, it’s permitted to use props. Check with you organizer.

Posing in a competition is a lot of work and a lot of fun. If you have practiced enough, you will pose well and you will look confident. You might still shake a little and you might get a case of dry-mouth, but if you know your poses and are confident, you can deal with it. The individual posing routine is your chance to have the judges and audiences see you at your best, without any other competitors to distract them from you.

One final tip. SMILE while you pose. Don’t make faces or show strain. You are in control. Have fun.

Tanning

There is an old bodybuilding saying, “If you think your tan is dark enough, put on two more coats.”

Great advice. Tanning for a bodybuilding competition is different than tanning for the prom or before you go to the beach or to a modeling job. While posing on stage during a bodybuilding competition, your cuts and muscularity must show up well against the very bright stage lights. You look your best if you are very, very dark. You look washed out and flat if your tan is not dark enough.

There are lots of ways to tan. Some are inexpensive and some are very expensive. Lets talk first about the least expensive way. The sun. It’s free and easy to use. But there are drawbacks. First, you can’t always depend on the sun being “out” when you need it. Second, it takes longer to tan in the sun than it does to tan using other means. Third, you can burn in the sun and cause peeling, which, on stage would be a disaster. And, finally, unless you know of a nude beach or have access to a private deck, you will develop tan lines that may show up on stage when you wear your posing suit.

The most reliable tan is achieved over time by visiting a good tanning salon. By good, I mean one that changes their bulbs frequently and is clean and well organized. I wouldn’t go to a tanning salon located in the rear of a coin-operated laundry (they do exist). If you want to keep a good healthy tan throughout the year, you should purchase a tanning package of minutes or unlimited sessions and try to go twice a week. By doing that, you won’t have as much “white” to cover up as you make your final preparations for your competition. And, in order to keep you skin healthy and smooth, you should apply a good tanning bed oil before each session and a good moisturizer after tanning. Both of those products are available for sale at the salons.

Once you have a decent base tan, one where people ask you in the middle of the winter, “Where have you been?”, maintain that color until it’s time for your contest.

During the final week, while your body is carb robbed and your brain is a lump of mush, you must think about applying enough tanning color to be “right-on” for the stage.

Again, there are a couple of ways to achieve this impossible task while the rest of your world is in a pre-contest daze. One way to apply self-tanning products and the other is to be professionally sprayed.

The Ultimate Guide To Choosing a Lawn Bowl

The ultimate guide to choosing a lawn bowl.

Selecting a lawn bowl is a very personal thing and there are a number of factors to consider when choosing a bowl. There are now over 30 different models available in the UK, each with a different bias, in eight sizes (00-6), four weights (medium, medium heavy, heavy and extra heavy), with at least six different types of grip, not to mention the vast array of colours. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the number of bowlers who are playing with the wrong size or get lost before they even start is considerable.

Hopefully below I’ve answered some, if not all of your questions, which will enable you to make an informed choice about which set of bowls will suit you best.

Brand

In all honesty the brand is the least important factor when buying a set of bowls. Often club players will argue the merits of one make over another. The truth is that all of the bowls manufacturers produce a wide range of good quality products which conform to standard laid down by World Bowls and almost every bowler will be able to find the right bowl for them.

Most established bowlers will have a personal preference which often comes about by trying out different bowls either by having a go with a clubmate’s or at their local bowls retailer. Choosing any particular model will depend on what suits you best – whether you intend to play indoors and outdoors or you want a bowl specifically for faster indoor greens.

There are several manufacturers of lawn bowls in the UK. The models are shown in brackets.

• Taylor Bowls (Lazer, Vector VS, Blaze, Ace, International, Legacy SL, Lignoid)
• Henselite (Dreamline, Tiger II, Classic II, Tiger, Classic)
• Drakes Pride (Advantage, Fineline, Professional, Jazz)
• Almark (Sterling Gold, Sterling Slim-Line, Arrow)

Size

Sizing your bowl is perhaps the most important aspect of selecting a lawn bowl. Get it wrong and you’ll either be hitting the opposite banking with a thud or dropping it at your feet. As a guide, most men will play with a bowl between the sizes of 3 and 5, with 3 being the smaller bowl of the two. Ladies will usually play with bowls between 00 and 2 in size, again with 00 being the smaller of the two.

The most popular method of determining which size is best for you is to use both hands to span your middle fingers and thumb around the running surface (the smooth area around the centre of the bowl so that your thumbs touch at the bottom of the bowl and your middle fingers meet at the top to form a circle. If you can achieve this without too much of a gap at the top of the bowl this will probably be the correct size of bowl for you.

But I would recommend trying one or two other methods in addition to ensure that you have the right size. Take the bowl most suited to you using the previous method and two further bowls – one a size below and the other a size above. Taking each bowl in turn, hold it as if about to deliver – with it sitting comfortable in the palm of your hand (depending on your preference) and your fingers placed in the grips – swing your arm forward and backward. If you feel like the bowl might come crashing down then it is obviously too big but if you can maintain a firm and comfortably grip then this is another tick in the box.

Lastly, I would ask the bowler to stretch their arm out in front of them, holding the bowl upside down. If after 30 seconds your arm begins to ache or shake, it is probably too big for you. If however, you maintain a firm and comfortable grip, this will confirm that this is more than likely the correct size of bowl for you. You might even like to try the same routines with the next size up to ensure that you’re not playing with a bowl that is too small – you should always play with the largest and heaviest bowl that you’re able to comfortably deliver and control.

Weight

In general there are two weights – medium and heavy – although some manufacturers do offer medium heavy and extra heavy as options. The weight of a bowl is indicated by the number and letter on the side of the bowl, i.e. 3H is a size three bowl with a heavy weight, 2M is a size two with a medium weight. In the UK quite a few bowlers own two sets – a heavyweight set for the faster indoor surfaces and a medium weight set for the slower outdoor greens.

The difference in weight should be considered alongside the size of the bowl in terms of what happens during a match. A heavier bowl certainly has its advantages as it will have more momentum and is more likely to stand its ground in the head. If it’s comfortable for the bowler to hold and deliver I would always recommend buying a heavier bowl no matter what size they have chosen.

Indoor or outdoor?

If you mainly play indoors, then I would recommend a bowl with a narrower bias such as a Taylor Lazer, Vector VS or Blaze, a Henselite Classic II or Tiger Pro or a Drakes Pride Fineline or Advantage. Otherwise you could find yourself aiming at the far end of the next rink in order for the bowl to swing back to the head.

Unless of course you’re a confident bowler, prefer a wider bias or play at the back end, in which case you might also consider a Taylor Ace or International, a Henselite Tiger or Tiger II or a Drakes Pride Professional or Jazz.

If you’re a hardier breed and spend your summer enjoying the delights of the British summer then the bias of the bowl is less important unless you play at number three or skip when you may have to negotiate your way around the other bowls.

Bias

Choosing the bias of your bowl largely depends on whether you are an indoor or outdoor bowler and what position you play in pairs, triples or fours (rinks). If you largely play indoors then I would recommend a narrower bias. But if you bowl outdoors a wider bias is likely to suit your needs.

If you’re just starting out in the game I would advise you to start with a bowl with a narrow to medium bias as you will probably be asked to play at number one or two where your primary task is to get as close to the jack as possible. Playing in these positions will also give you an opportunity to find your line and weight.

Bowls with a narrow to medium bias (best for indoor) include:

• Taylor Bowls (Lazer, Vector VS, Blaze, Ace)
• Henselite (Dreamline, Tiger II, Classic II)
• Drakes Pride (Advantage, Fineline, Professional)
• Almark (Arrow, Sterling Slimline)

Bowls with a medium to wide bias (best for outdoor) include:

• Taylor Bowls (Ace, International, Legacy SL, Lignoid)
• Henselite (Classic II, Classic, Tiger)
• Drakes Pride (Professional, Jazz)
• Almark (Sterling Slimline, Sterling Gold)

Generally, an indoor bowl is designed to have a much narrower bias, while an outdoor bowl usually has much too wide a swing for use indoors and can be difficult to control. When I say indoor bowls I am not referring to short mat bowls – you could get away with using your indoor or outdoor bowls in a game of short mat but there are bowls designed specifically for this format of the game – Stevens and Drakes Pride being the better known.

If you search Google Images using the terms taylor bias chart, henselite bias chart, drakes pride bias chart and almark bias chart you will find a chart which illustrates the bias (the lines which the bowls take) of each bowl in the manufacturer’s range of bowls.

Grips

Grips are the indented rings or indentations around the sides of the bowl that offer somewhere to place your thumb and fingers when delivering. These provide a more secure grip and better control, particularly in cold and wet or hot, sweaty conditions. If you mainly bowl indoors then the grips are less important.

There are various types of grip (deep dimple, shallow dimple, progrips, crescent grooves, vertical grooves) available depending on the manufacturer and model, so I would suggest trying out bowls with different grips before reaching a decision. Again, if you belong to a club ask your fellow members if you can have a roll-up with their bowls to get a better idea of what is more comfortable and suited to your style of bowling.

Pastry Box: Benefits Of Packaging Pastries

Pastry boxes are normally produced according to the requirements of the consumer. However, the box is produced from quality material to ensure proper preservation and delivery of pastries. These boxes are usually produced and shipped at a flat rate. It does not also require any form of expertise to assemble.

These boxes can be produced in different designs and styles. Prominent companies also offer different sizes of pastry packaging boxes. Inserts can also be provided on these boxes to store more than one pastry at a time.

The important use of Pastry box
Pastry box is used for packaging Pastries. These boxes help the fragile pastry to retain its freshness and taste for a long period of time. Consumers enjoy eating fresh, moist and tasty pastries. When they discover that your company’s pastries stay fresh for long, they will be more interested to buy your product.

Bakers and confectioners use the Pastry packaging box to promote and grow their businesses. With a lot of competitors producing almost the same taste of pastries, one unique way to differentiate your brand from others is to make your packaging more attractive and unique.

Consumers place more value on items that are neatly packaged. Pastry packaging box help to prevent dust and other items from coming in contact with the pastry. The box helps to keep the pastry in a hygienic state for long.

These boxes can be used to delight the customer in a special way. Apart from the fact that these boxes can retain the freshness and sweetness of the pastry, it also retains their shape. The pastry is fragile and can lose its shape easily. The box helps to prevent any form of abrasion or pressure that may distort the shape of this food item, during storage and while on transit.

Pastries can be offered to guests during birthday parties and other main events. These boxes are usually made more attractive and colorful for such celebrations. For wedding, the color of the Pastry packaging box can be the same as that used for the occasion. This will add more color and beauty to the environment.

For transporting a large number of pastries, these boxes can be customized with special inserts. This will help businesses to save cost of transportation as a large number of pastries can be transported at the same time in a single pastry box. The insert also help to hold the pastries firmly in place. It prevents these desserts from colliding or falling, thereby reducing wastage that the business might incur.

New and existing businesses can also use the pastry packaging box to grow their businesses. This box is also an excellent marketing tool. Company logo, address and other vital information can be printed on the box. The type of ingredients used can also be printed on the pastry box. Kids will fall in love with pastry boxes that are designed with special cartoon characters or printed with attractive colors.

The pastry box can be customized into any unique sizes, shapes, or designs. These boxes can also be customized with handle to make it convenient for customers to carry their precious dessert home.

Benefits of customized pastry box
Customizing your own unique pastry box is a prerequisite for business success and growth. Once the quality of the product is good, another unique way to entice consumers is to deliver your pastry in unique packaging boxes. There is a lot of competition among bakers and for your business to gain successful market penetration you need to get crafty with your pastry box.

Leading packaging companies allow their customers to choose the design, style and type of material they want their packaging box to have. Numerous templates can also be offered to customers to stimulate the customer’s idea. Delight consumers with attractive pastry boxes. These boxes can also be customized with special handles to make it easier for your customers to carry more pastries.

The pastry box can also be made more attractive with high color technology such as the CMYK and PMS technique. This modern color technology in addition to the digital and offset printing techniques can be used to enhance the attractiveness of the pastry packaging box.

Why bakers and confectioners prefer the Pastry box
The handles that come with these boxes are one of the unique features that make the pastry box portable and convenient to handle. In addition to the handle, window design can also be provided on the packaging box to increase the visibility of the content.

Printed Pastry box
Pastry box is printed with high technology such as the digital and offset printing technique. Quality ink and color technology is also used to enhance the appearance of the pastry packaging box. For special events, these boxes can also be printed with compelling theme that presents the product in a unique way.

Myths of NFL Cheerleaders Unraveled

So there’s tons of cheerleaders out there dancing on the field and we never bother to get to know them. All we do is just stare at them dancing, think ‘oh they dance good, look good, typical cheerleaders’ and move on without a thought as to what really goes behind the scenes of an NFL cheerleader. Well, I am here to tell you that there is a lot more than meets the eye. All those movies you saw like “Bring it On” and those television shows that showed a bunch of drama queens as cheerleaders have got it all wrong.

Myth #1 – It’s easy being an NFL cheerleader.

Um. No. There is no way that it is easy being a cheerleader. So much goes into the auditions, that you’re lucky to even make it into the squad in the first place. Hundreds of girls try out and you have to be in the top 3% to make it in the squad, no kidding. They all dance good, look good, are energetic, enthusiastic, and have a great personality on top of all that. After they get into the squad, it takes hours of practice almost every day in order to get the NFL dancing routines down. It gets worse when they have to dance in the freezing cold, especially in the northern States (which some NFL teams use as an excuse for not having a cheerleading team and yes not every NFL team has a cheerleading squad). Outside of the dances, they also have to show up for charity events, make guest appearances, do photo shoots, and sometimes even travel overseas to entertain our very own US military troops to keep their morale high. Whoever said being a cheerleader was easy obviously hasn’t seen one at work.

Myth: NFL Cheerleaders get to meet football stars and date them

Absolutely not. NFL Cheerleaders are not allowed to “fraternize” with the players. That means no flirting, no personal relationships, no personal “friendships”, or anything that might imply a relationship outside of the professional realm of the NFL. Yes, they can interact a little bit at charity events and guest appearances but typically, you’d have better luck getting to know the football stars as a janitor cleaning their locker rooms or being some sort of groupie. Cheerleaders going out with the likes of Tom Brady and Randy Moss? Forget about it.

Myth: NFL Cheerleaders rack in the fame and fortune

How much do cheerleaders get paid in the NFL? The answer to that question is $15 to $50 a game. Heck, there are times when they don’t get paid at all. They have to show up at guest appearance, photo shoots, overseas performances for US troops and all of that is most likely unpaid. Don’t feel too bad for them. Some of them get out of cheerleading and find that a bunch of opportunities await them because of their NFL cheerleading elite status. Teri Hatcher from Desperate Housewives was a San Francisco 49ers Gold Rush Cheerleader once and look where she is now. Making $285,000 an episode and multiply that by 10+ episodes per season. Now who wants to be an NFL cheerleader?

Myth: NFL Cheerleaders are stupid and act like valley girls

Yes, NFL cheerleaders are hot but who said you can’t combine beauty with brains? People tend to associate cheerleaders with light-headed valley girls who enjoy going shopping and being the drama queens. Well these cheerleaders aren’t in high school anymore for one thing. Another thing is that these cheerleaders need to be mature and intelligent so that they can answer to the media. After all, they are an important aspect of the team’s public image.

NFL cheerleaders deserve a better reputation. Sure there are a few black sheep out there but in general, the NFL cheerleaders are good girls who do their best to perform for us. The least we could do is show our appreciation. Don’t forget they also contribute to the community in various charity events so they do help out on a local and national level. Let’s show our support for them and give them the credit they deserve.

Tree Climbing Isn’t Tree Climbing Without Spikes

Tree climbing spikes are reported to be the most important instrument when climbing trees, electricity poles or even telephone poles. These spikes are along with the climbing shoes so that they can enable the climber to buy a perfect grip and secure them from falling as soon as climbing a tree or maybe a pole. Tree climbing spikes are normally created from stainless steel and they come in different lengths. There is often a unit to mount these spikes towards lower foot and leg in the climber. This usually comprises of a comfortable cushion shell that wraps throughout the ankle, foot and lower leg in the climber.

The lower component to this unit is left open in the heel and on entry side with just and a stirrup for supporting the arch in the climber’s foot. The semi flexible component to the cushion shell is wrapped throughout the lower portion of the climber’s leg which is protected by fast relieve resistance buckles. On the inner wall membrane of this shell you will find there’s spike mount that releases one couple of spikes of variable length for accommodating a variety of trees. Tree climbing is some thing that evokes memories of childhood days and perhaps the magic of that period.

However, for others who have never experienced this sort of time in their childhood days, tree climbing could be a fascination which they discover overwhelming. A couple of differences lately are that tree climbing has become a most challenging job and there were many developments in tree climbing equipment. This comprises of spikes which help a climber as soon as climbing a tree.

Climbing is regarded as an exciting and heroic sport which requires good technique and skills. You will discover more risks involved within climbing trees than most other sports. Therefore you should work with any safety devices designed for help minimize the possibility and avoid injury. Spikes are ideal device to use with regard to climbing trees. If you are looking at climbing trees then you should have devices to make your own climbing easier. One vital device is definitely tree climbing spikes. Tree climbing spikes will be the tools needed before climbing the tree. They are attached towards climbing shoes to provide a grip that you should attach to the tree.

There are two sorts of spikes out there. You will have to decide which type is most preferable to you. They are “short” and “long” spikes.

Short tree climbing spikes are especially designed for semi thick trees. Short spikes are produced from steel and tend to be about one inch long. These spikes are good for short journeys. Short spikes can support a climber around the weight of 500 pounds.

Long spikes are ideal for trees with wide in addition to thick bark. They provide the climber by using comfort by helping to lessen the risk of decreasing. Long spikes allow the climber to scale overhanging branches with minimal damage to the tree.

If you are not experienced with tree climbing spikes, then you definitely should opt for long spikes. They will help you in climbing trees in the thickest variety. Tree climbing spikes comes in different varieties and styles to cater for a man or women’s choice. It is crucial to obtain safe climbing spikes which make the task of climbing a tree less of a challenge. There are many great things about climbing spikes. You should analyze the needs you have and take time net the right kind connected with tree climbing spikes to your requirements.

It is necessary to suit the tree climbing spikes before you decide to are planning to run the trees. In order to help your climb that they are easy and safe you should install a perfect couple of spikes to your shoes and boots. With the presence connected with tree climbing spikes you’ll be able to climb the tree like a monkey. Spikes should be perfectly and efficiently along with the lower side in the leg. These spikes shall be used for gripping by placing them in to the tree. With the by using tree climbing spikes you can protect yourself from that risky situation of falling coming from a tree.

In order to get ready tree climbing spikes, the first step is to determine along the lower side of one’s leg and the width in the area where you might put the spikes employing approximately 2 inches connected with fur belt. This will enable you to fit the spikes properly. You should also keep records in the measurements for future benchmark. The second step would be to cut the steel fly fishing line into two equal sizing’s of 15 inches more than the lower leg time-span. After cutting the steel rod you’ll need to grind on the tip of both the rods. After you tend to be finished with pointing that rod, you should be alert in the pointed rod before climbing. If pointed rods tend to be neglected during climbing then you may want become injured.

The third step within preparing the spikes for climbing would be to fix the torch towards rods at a ninety degree angle. Torch rods have become useful during climbing. The steel rod will position the torch at the pointed end which is a better angle with regard to tree climbing. The next step would be to attach the leather belts by using 4 steel rods of ¼ inch throughout the ankle. It is crucial to join these steel rods towards leather belts for basic safety. Protecting the inner leg is a last step of arranging the spikes for tree climbing. For the sake connected with safety and comfort you should stitch the leather belts towards pieces of leather with regard to applying a double sheet. This will give a safety side to the part of your leg. All the above steps have become useful for making better tree climbing spikes. You ought to be very careful during that preparation of tree climbing spikes as people get different needs and personal preferences when climbing. You should collect the many equipment before beginning your own tree climbing journey.

If you’re a professional climber and required to climb on poles and trees you’ll definitely need to put on climbing spikes. These tree climbing surges are important devices that may be attached to your shoes to support when climbing a tree or pole. The main purpose connected with the climbing spikes would be to dig holes into that trunk of the tree so you have a smaller possibility of falling or sliding off. These climbing spikes tend to be made of stainless steel so it can penetrate hard in to the trunk of the tree. This particular tool is essential for those who have no other support in addition to the tree or once the surface of the tree is smooth so that it hard for you to hold on to your grip. By just how, climbing spikes usually come in two different types as mentioned above.

This is why it’s important to know which type is suitable for you before investing in a pair. Short tree climbing spikes are likely to be used to climb trees or poles which might be semi thick and tend to be used by electricity in addition to television companies. However, long tree climbing surges are of longer grip and they are two inches in length defining it as comfortable for the climber as soon as climbing a tree or maybe pole. If you are gonna climb a tree which has a thick trunk then you should use long tree climbing surges. These type of spikes are likely to be used by tree trimmers. By using long spikes tree climbers can simply trim the branches in the tree without causing any damage to the tree.

When climbing power poles and telephone poles you should choose long spikes as these poles wouldn’t have any bark. When it comes to climbing trees you should use small climbing spikes since these trees will often have thick bark which is actually reliable support. However you will discover chances that your surges can cut out that could hurt you and injury the tree.

Whenever you’re climbing a tree or a pole you must always be careful. Do not forget that one small mistake could cause you serious injury.

Therefore avoiding any casualties you should always consider safety measures. To begin with you must have any belt that may provide you support in the event you slip or fall. When climbing a tree using spikes you will find there’s chance that these surges can injure the tree, especially pine trees. When climbing a pine tree it may well cover you entirely with pitch that may cause several injuries towards tree. So in this case it really is better to use longer spikes that may cause a less degree of injury to both you and also the tree.